Zenith

Who are Zenith?

Zenith is a Swiss watchmaker founded by Georges Favre-Jacot in Le Locle in 1865, and based there ever since (LVMH). It is best known for the El Primero automatic chronograph movement of 1969, and has been owned by LVMH since 1999. This page covers its history, collections and ownership, then what to check when buying a pre-owned Zenith in the UK.

LVMH lists Zenith’s collections as Chronomaster, Defy, Pilot and G.F.J., and says Zenith has won 2,333 chronometry prizes since 1903, most of them with the Calibre 135 (LVMH). UK retailers also list the Elite (Watches of Switzerland). Zenith describes itself as the first watch manufacture in the modern sense of the term (Watches of Switzerland).

The history of Zenith

Zenith’s history runs from a Le Locle workshop in 1865 to a chronometry specialist, then to the El Primero of 1969, near-closure of its mechanical production under American ownership in the 1970s, revival in the 1980s and ownership by LVMH from 1999. The key dates are 1865, 1969, 1975, 1984 and 1999.

Georges Favre-Jacot. Favre-Jacot began making watches in Le Locle in 1865 (Wikipedia; LVMH). A visit to the Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia in 1876 introduced him to American factory methods, and the firm won a Grand Prix at the Paris World’s Fair in 1900 (Wikipedia). In 1912 it took the name Fabrique des Montres Zenith S.A. (Wikipedia).

Pilot watches. Zenith registered “pilot” as a trademark for watch dials in 1888 (Time+Tide). Zenith’s own press material says the 1888 filing was for the French “Pilote” and the English “Pilot” followed in 1904. Louis Blériot used a Zenith on the first flight across the English Channel in 1909 and later praised its precision (Time+Tide).

Chronometry. Zenith competed in observatory chronometry trials. Its Calibre 135, made from 1949 to 1962, was developed for these competitions, and the 135-O observatory version won more than 235 prizes (Swisswatches Magazine). Between 1950 and 1954 it won five Neuchâtel Observatory prizes (Wikipedia).

The El Primero. Work on an automatic chronograph began in 1962 for the company’s centenary (Wikipedia); Monochrome Watches dates the start of development to 1963. The target of 1965 was missed. On 10 January 1969 Zenith unveiled the calibre 3019 PHC, the El Primero, an automatic chronograph beating at 36,000 vibrations an hour (Monochrome Watches). A rival consortium’s Calibre 11 and Seiko’s calibre 6139 appeared the same year, both at lower frequencies (Monochrome Watches). The first Defy, nicknamed the coffre-fort or safe for its angular case, also came out in 1969 (Watchonista).

American ownership and Charles Vermot. Zenith merged with Movado in 1968 (Wikipedia), and in 1971 the Zenith Radio Corporation of Chicago, an unrelated electronics company, bought the business; Wikipedia gives 1972 (Monochrome Watches). Mechanical movement production stopped in 1975. When the presses and tools were ordered sold for scrap in 1976, the watchmaker Charles Vermot hid them, with the plans, in the factory (Monochrome Watches). In 1978 the American owner sold Zenith to a group of Swiss manufacturers (Monochrome Watches).

Revival. In 1984 Zenith restarted mechanical component production and signed a ten-year contract to supply El Primero movements to Rolex. Rolex’s Daytona reference 16520 of 1988 used calibre 4030, a modified El Primero (Monochrome Watches). The Elite movement, developed from 1991, was named Best Movement of the Year at Baselworld in 1994 (Wikipedia).

LVMH. Zenith joined LVMH in 1999 (Monochrome Watches). Wikipedia gives the price as US$48.4 million. Recent launches include the Chronomaster Sport (2021), the Defy Skyline (2022), a new Pilot collection (2023) and the G.F.J. (2025) (Watchonista; Time+Tide; Swisswatches Magazine).

What is Zenith known for?

Zenith is known for the El Primero high-frequency automatic chronograph, observatory chronometry prizes, its aviation watches and the Defy. Each point below is sourced.

The El Primero. Zenith calls the El Primero the world’s first automatic chronograph (LVMH). It was unveiled on 10 January 1969, a few weeks before the rival Calibre 11 (Monochrome Watches). At 36,000 vibrations an hour (5 Hz), it beats faster than most watch movements, which lets it measure tenths of a second. The El Primero 3600, unveiled in 2019, powers the Chronomaster Sport, whose bezel is marked in tenths of a second (Monochrome Watches; Watchonista). Our guide to in-house and outsourced movements explains why buyers ask who made a movement.

The Rolex connection. From 1988 Rolex used a modified El Primero, calibre 4030, in the Daytona, until it fitted its own movement in 2000 (Monochrome Watches; Wikipedia). Our Rolex brand page covers the Daytona.

Chronometry prizes. LVMH gives Zenith’s total as 2,333 chronometry awards since 1903, which Zenith calls a world record, most won with the Calibre 135 (LVMH).

Aviation. Zenith’s link with flying goes back to the 1888 “pilot” trademark and Blériot’s 1909 Channel flight (Time+Tide). That history is the basis of today’s Pilot collection.

Charles Vermot. The story of the watchmaker who hid the El Primero tooling in the 1970s is part of how Zenith presents itself. Monochrome Watches calls his act the movement’s salvation; production of the chronograph restarted in 1984 (Monochrome Watches).

Which Zenith collections are there?

Zenith’s current range is built on Defy, Chronomaster, Pilot and G.F.J. (LVMH), with the Elite also sold by UK retailers (Watches of Switzerland). The El Primero movement appears across several of them.

The collections table on this page gives the year each family began, where we could source it, and a one-line description. A few points help when you read listings:

• Chronomaster versions. The Chronomaster name covers several chronographs, including the 2021 Chronomaster Sport and revival models based on early El Primero watches such as the A385 (Watchonista; Monochrome Watches). Check the full model name and reference.
• Old and new Defy. The Defy of 1969 was a time-only watch with an angular case; today’s Defy range includes models such as the Defy Skyline (2022) (Watchonista). A “Defy” listing could be either.
• Pilot names. Zenith made Pilot-branded watches before the current collection of 2023, including the Pilot Type 20 (Watchonista; Time+Tide). Check which generation you are looking at.
• G.F.J. The G.F.J. of 2025 is a 160-piece limited edition in platinum (Swisswatches Magazine), so check the edition number against the papers.

Who owns Zenith?

Zenith is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, which it joined in 1999 (Monochrome Watches). LVMH lists Zenith among its watches and jewellery Maisons and names Benoit de Clerck as its chief executive (LVMH).

Before LVMH, Zenith merged with Movado in 1968, was owned by the American Zenith Radio Corporation from the early 1970s, and was sold in 1978 to a group of Swiss manufacturers (Wikipedia; Monochrome Watches). Wikipedia names the 1978 buyer as Dixi, which bought the Movado-Zenith-Mondia business. Wikipedia gives the 1999 purchase price as US$48.4 million.

LVMH groups Zenith with its other watch and jewellery Maisons (LVMH). Because LVMH is a listed company, it publishes annual reports.

Buying a pre-owned Zenith in the UK: what to check

Check that the reference and serial numbers on the watch match its papers, that the papers and any service records are genuine, and that the watch is not recorded as stolen. On an El Primero chronograph, ask about servicing. Then check what guarantee you get: Zenith’s own warranty, a Zenith Icons watch, or a dealer’s terms.

1. Papers and the full set. Ask exactly what comes with the watch: box, warranty card, instructions and receipts, and whether each is original. Our guide to what “full set” means explains what each item proves and what it does not.

2. Reference and serial numbers. The numbers on the case and movement should match the papers. For limited editions such as the G.F.J., the edition number should match too.

3. Authenticity and stolen-watch check. Buy from a seller who will put authenticity in writing and accept returns, and have the watch checked by a watchmaker you choose. Our guide on how to spot a fake watch covers what a watchmaker looks at. Before you pay, check the serial number against a stolen-watch register; our stolen-watch check guide lists the UK registers.

4. Servicing an El Primero. Ask when the watch was last serviced, by whom, and for the paperwork. Start and stop the chronograph and reset it to check the hands return to zero. Our guide to caring for a mechanical watch explains what a service involves.

5. Vintage pieces. On a 1960s or 1970s El Primero or Defy, ask whether the dial, hands and pushers are original. Zenith’s Heritage department can authenticate components from its archive (Time+Tide); whether it offers this as a service to private owners is something to ask Zenith directly.

6. Warranty. Zenith’s warranty terms depend on where and when the watch was bought; in 2022 it gave five years, including a first service, on watches bought through its own website (Sharp Magazine). Whether any extended cover passes to a later owner depends on Zenith’s terms. See watch warranties explained.

7. Who you buy from. There are three main routes:

Sources: Time+Tide, The launch of Zenith Icons (19 April 2021) (checked 29 October 2026).

Zenith Icons launched at Zenith’s boutique in Ginza, Tokyo (Time+Tide). We could not confirm whether Icons watches are offered in the UK. For how independent dealers compare with appointed retailers, read grey market versus authorised dealer.

For the full process from setting a budget to collecting the watch, see the guide to buying a luxury watch.

Frequently asked questions

Where is Zenith based?

In Le Locle, in the Neuchâtel mountains of Switzerland, where it was founded in 1865 (LVMH).

Who owns Zenith?

LVMH, since 1999 (Monochrome Watches).

What is the El Primero?

Zenith’s automatic chronograph movement, unveiled on 10 January 1969. It beats at 36,000 vibrations an hour (Monochrome Watches).

Was the El Primero the first automatic chronograph?

Zenith says so (LVMH). It was unveiled a few weeks before the rival Calibre 11, and Seiko’s calibre 6139 appeared the same year (Monochrome Watches).

Did Rolex use Zenith movements?

Yes. From 1988 the Rolex Daytona used calibre 4030, based on the El Primero (Monochrome Watches). Rolex later moved to its own movement.

Who was Charles Vermot?

A Zenith watchmaker who, when the company’s American owners stopped mechanical production in the 1970s, hid the El Primero tooling and plans instead of letting them be scrapped (Monochrome Watches).

What is Zenith Icons?

Zenith’s programme for vintage watches, which it authenticates and restores itself and sells with a three-year warranty and a passport recording each watch’s history (Time+Tide).

Is a Zenith Defy the same as a Chronomaster?

No. The Defy is Zenith’s technical and sports range, begun in 1969, and the Chronomaster is its chronograph range (Watchonista; LVMH).

Can I buy a pre-owned Zenith without papers?

You can, but without papers you rely more heavily on the seller’s written guarantee, an independent watchmaker’s check and a stolen-watch check. Agree in writing that you get a full refund if the watch is later found not to be genuine.

This page is general information. Watch60 is independent and has no commercial relationship with Zenith or LVMH.

We check the facts on this page against the sources listed, and it is correct to the best of our knowledge as of October 2026. Brands change their warranty, servicing and sales terms, so confirm them with the brand or the seller before you buy.