Blancpain

Who are Blancpain?

Blancpain is a Swiss watchmaker based in Le Brassus, in the Vallée de Joux, owned by the Swatch Group since 1992. It dates its founding to 1735 in Villeret, although that date is disputed. This page covers its history, collections and ownership, then what to check when buying a pre-owned Blancpain in the UK.

The Swatch Group describes Blancpain as “the world’s oldest watch brand” and says it makes many of its own components and tools, with each movement assembled by hand by a single watchmaker (Swatch Group). Blancpain makes mechanical watches only; its revival in the 1980s was built on the claim that it had never made a quartz watch (Wikipedia).

The history of Blancpain

Blancpain’s history runs from a family workshop in Villeret to near-closure during the quartz era and a revival in Le Brassus in the 1980s. The key dates are 1735 (the founding the brand claims), the Fifty Fathoms (1953), the revival under Jacques Piguet and Jean-Claude Biver (1982–83) and the sale to the Swatch Group’s predecessor, SMH, in 1992.

Villeret. Blancpain says Jehan-Jacques Blancpain registered as a watchmaker in Villeret in 1735 (Blancpain). Wikipedia notes that this account is disputed: it cites the watch historian Perezcope, who found no evidence that Jehan-Jacques or the next two generations were watchmakers. In 1815 Frédéric-Louis Blancpain modernised the workshops (Blancpain), replacing the old verge escapement with a cylinder escapement (Wikipedia). In 1865 the firm built a hydroelectric plant on the River Suze to power production (Wikipedia).

The Fiechter years. When the Blancpain family’s management ended in 1932, Betty Fiechter took over the company (Blancpain), and in 1933 she and André Léal bought the business, renaming it Rayville S.A., succ. de Blancpain (Wikipedia). The Swatch Group calls her “the first woman to lead a Swiss watchmaking house”. From 1950 she ran it with her nephew Jean-Jacques Fiechter (Blancpain).

The Fifty Fathoms. Captain Robert Maloubier and Lieutenant Claude Riffaud, who founded the French navy’s combat swimmer unit, needed a dependable diving watch and approached Fiechter, himself a diver (Swisswatches Magazine). The result was the Fifty Fathoms, which the Swatch Group dates to 1953. The Robb Report says the navy first contacted Fiechter in 1952. Wikipedia marks the 1953 claim to a first modern dive watch as disputed. Wikipedia says that from 1958 it was standard issue for US Navy combat divers.

The SSIH years and the quartz era. Blancpain joined SSIH, the group that also owned Omega, and became its movement production centre. Blancpain gives the year as 1961; Wikipedia says the late 1950s. Wikipedia reports that annual production peaked at 220,000 watches in 1971, that SSIH used Blancpain to make movements for Omega from 1975, and that the brand was dissolved into Omega in 1980.

The revival. Jacques Piguet, whose family ran the movement maker Frédéric Piguet, bought the dormant Blancpain name and brought in Jean-Claude Biver (Blancpain). Sources disagree on the year: Blancpain says 1982, while Wikipedia says SSIH sold the name to Piguet and Biver in 1983, when production moved to Le Brassus and the company became Blancpain SA. The brand was relaunched on the line that Blancpain had never made a quartz watch and never would (Wikipedia).

Swatch Group. In 1992 Piguet sold Blancpain and Frédéric Piguet to SMH, which later became the Swatch Group (Blancpain). Marc A. Hayek, a grandson of the Swatch Group’s founder Nicolas Hayek, became president and CEO in 2002 (Blancpain; Wikipedia). Frédéric Piguet was absorbed into the Blancpain manufacture in Le Sentier in 2010, and the case maker Simon & Membrez followed in 2022 (Blancpain).

What is Blancpain known for?

Blancpain is known for the Fifty Fathoms, one of the first modern dive watches, for complicated watches such as moon phases, perpetual calendars and the carrousel, and for never having made a quartz watch. Its movements are made in its own workshops in the Vallée de Joux.

The Fifty Fathoms. The name refers to fifty fathoms of depth, about 91 metres (Swisswatches Magazine). Fiechter’s specification included a secured rotating bezel, luminous hands and markers on a dark dial, a self-winding movement and an anti-magnetic case (Robb Report). Later versions were supplied to other forces, including US Navy divers and, as the Barakuda, the West German navy (Wikipedia; Swisswatches Magazine). Our guide to water resistance explains what depth ratings mean in practice.

Complications. Wikipedia lists a series of claims from the 1980s onwards: the smallest moon-phase display (1983), the thinnest self-winding chronograph (1987), the 1735 Grand Complication wristwatch (1991), and the first movement with a one-minute flying carrousel and 100-hour power reserve (2008). In November 2025 the Swatch Group described the Grande Double Sonnerie as a new launch.

Mechanical only. Wikipedia records Blancpain’s position that it “has never made a quartz watch and never will”. The same article notes that in 1975 SSIH used the Blancpain works to make quartz pocket watches for the Moeris brand, so the claim applies to watches sold under the Blancpain name. Our guide to mechanical and quartz watches explains the difference.

Hand assembly. The Swatch Group says the manual assembly of each movement by a single watchmaker is standard at Blancpain.

Which Blancpain collections are there?

Blancpain’s current range has five main collections: the Fifty Fathoms dive watches (including the Bathyscaphe), the Air Command pilot’s chronograph, the Villeret dress watches, the Ladybird women’s line, and the one-of-a-kind Métiers d’Art pieces.

The collections table on this page gives the year each family began, where known, and a one-line description. A few points help when you are reading listings:

• Fifty Fathoms and Bathyscaphe. The Bathyscaphe sits within the Fifty Fathoms family. It was introduced in 1956 as a smaller, more civilian version (Phillips), and Blancpain is marking its 70th anniversary with a limited edition (Blancpain). Some 1960s versions were sold mainly through dive shops, under names such as Aqua Lung (Phillips).
• Air Command dates. Swisswatches describes the 2019 Air Command as a re-edition of a rare 1950s model. A Phillips auction essay dates an example to about 1965–70, says the model was proposed to the US Air Force without orders, and says only a handful survive. Treat a “vintage Air Command” with great care and ask for evidence of its history.
• Retired names. The Léman sports collection, introduced in 1994, was removed from the catalogue in 2019 (Wikipedia). Léman watches still turn up second-hand.
• Vintage watches. Blancpain has a heritage workshop for vintage watches, the Atelier Héritage (Blancpain). Watches from the Rayville era may carry that name rather than Blancpain alone.

Who owns Blancpain?

Blancpain is owned by the Swatch Group, a Swiss group that lists 16 watch brands. It bought Blancpain in 1992, when the group was still called SMH. Blancpain has its own president and CEO, Marc A. Hayek, who has led it since 2002.

Blancpain sits in the Swatch Group’s Watches & Jewelry segment alongside brands such as Breguet and Omega (Swatch Group). The sale in 1992 included the movement maker Frédéric Piguet (Blancpain). Marc A. Hayek is also president of Breguet (Worldtempus).

Because Blancpain is part of a listed group, its figures are not reported separately; the Swatch Group’s annual report covers the group as a whole.

Buying a pre-owned Blancpain in the UK: what to check

Check that the reference and serial numbers on the watch match its papers, that the papers and any service records are genuine, and that the watch is not recorded as stolen. For an older or vintage watch, ask whether it has been seen by Blancpain’s heritage workshop.

1. Papers and the full set. Ask exactly which items are included, such as the warranty card, box and service receipts, and whether they are originals. Our guide to what “full set” means explains what each item proves and what it does not.

2. Reference and serial numbers. The reference and serial number on the watch should match the warranty card and any receipts. A seller who will not show the numbers before you pay is a reason to walk away.

3. Authenticity and original parts. Fake Blancpain watches exist, and vintage Fifty Fathoms watches in particular can have replacement dials, bezels or hands. Buy from a seller who will put authenticity in writing and accept returns, and have the watch checked by a watchmaker you choose. Our guide on how to spot a fake watch covers what a watchmaker looks at.

4. Stolen-watch check. Before you pay, check the serial number against a stolen-watch register and ask the seller to confirm the watch is not reported lost or stolen. Our stolen-watch check guide lists the UK registers and how to use them.

5. Water resistance. If you plan to dive or swim with a Fifty Fathoms, ask when its water resistance was last tested and by whom. Gaskets age whether or not the watch is worn.

6. Warranty and servicing. Blancpain’s site has a page on its international warranty, but its terms did not load in automated access. Ask when the watch was last serviced, by whom, and for the paperwork. See watch warranties explained.

7. Who you buy from. There are three main routes in the UK:

We found no Blancpain-run certified pre-owned programme; the certified pre-owned Blancpain watches we found were sold under retailers’ own schemes. For how independent dealers compare with appointed retailers, read grey market versus authorised dealer.

For the full process from setting a budget to collecting the watch, see the guide to buying a luxury watch.

Frequently asked questions

When was Blancpain founded?

Blancpain gives 1735, when Jehan-Jacques Blancpain registered as a watchmaker in Villeret (Blancpain). Wikipedia notes that the date is disputed, citing a historian who found no evidence the early Blancpains were watchmakers.

Who owns Blancpain?

The Swatch Group, which bought it in 1992 when the group was called SMH (Blancpain). Its president and CEO is Marc A. Hayek.

Where are Blancpain watches made?

In the Vallée de Joux, Switzerland. Blancpain SA is in Le Brassus (Swatch Group), and its movement manufacture is in Le Sentier (Blancpain).

Was the Fifty Fathoms the first modern dive watch?

Blancpain dates it to 1953, developed with French navy combat swimmers (Swatch Group; Swisswatches Magazine). Wikipedia marks the claim as disputed, so treat “first” with caution.

Has Blancpain ever made a quartz watch?

Not under its own name, according to Blancpain’s long-standing claim (Wikipedia). Wikipedia notes that in 1975 its works made quartz pocket watches for another SSIH brand.

What is the difference between the Fifty Fathoms and the Bathyscaphe?

The Bathyscaphe is part of the Fifty Fathoms family. It was introduced in 1956 as a smaller, more civilian version for everyday wear (Phillips).

Is Blancpain related to Omega?

Both belong to the Swatch Group (Swatch Group). From 1961 Blancpain was part of SSIH, Omega’s parent, and made movements for it (Blancpain; Wikipedia).

What does Rayville mean on a Blancpain?

Rayville was the company name from 1933, Rayville S.A., succ. de Blancpain, after the Blancpain family’s management ended (Wikipedia).

Can I buy a pre-owned Blancpain without papers?

You can, but without papers you rely more heavily on the seller’s written guarantee, an independent watchmaker’s check and a stolen-watch check. Agree in writing that you get a full refund if the watch is later found not to be genuine.

This page is general information. Watch60 is independent and has no commercial relationship with Blancpain or the Swatch Group.

We check the facts on this page against the sources listed, and it is correct to the best of our knowledge as of October 2026. Brands change their warranty, servicing and sales terms, so confirm them with the brand or the seller before you buy.