De Bethune

Who are De Bethune?

De Bethune is a Swiss watchmaker in L’Auberson, a village near Sainte-Croix in the Jura mountains of the canton of Vaud, founded on 22 April 2002 by the watchmaker Denis Flageollet and David Zanetta (De Bethune). It makes its own movements, and its DB28 won the top prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2011 (Monochrome Watches). This page covers its history, collections and ownership, then what to check when buying a De Bethune watch second-hand in the UK.

De Bethune says it makes about 350 watches a year with 90 employees, has made 31 calibres in its own workshops and holds 8 patents (De Bethune). Wikipedia describes its output as “a few hundred timepieces each year”.

The history of De Bethune

De Bethune began as a partnership between a watchmaker trained in restoration and a watch dealer. The key dates are the founding (2002), a run of technical patents from 2004, the DB28 (2010) and its award (2011), and a change of majority owner in 2021.

The founders. Denis Flageollet was born in 1962 in Gérardmer, in the Vosges, into a family of watchmakers. He studied at the Technicum du Locle, restored historical pieces at the watch museum in Le Locle, and in 1982 joined Michel Parmigiani’s workshop, the forerunner of Parmigiani Fleurier (Wikipedia, Denis Flageollet). In 1989 he co-founded Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA) in Sainte-Croix with François-Paul Journe, founder of F.P. Journe, and spent 12 years there as technical director (Wikipedia, Denis Flageollet). THA was later bought by Carl F. Bucherer, in 2007 (Wikipedia, Carl F. Bucherer). Flageollet and David Zanetta founded De Bethune together in 2002 (De Bethune).

The name. De Bethune is named after the Chevalier de Bethune, a French nobleman and naval captain whom the company describes as “one of the leading figures in precision horology during the early Enlightenment”, credited with an escapement that carries his name (De Bethune).

Patents and materials. De Bethune’s own timeline records a balance wheel and hairspring patent and a spherical moon phase display in 2004, blued titanium the same year, the triple pare-chute shock absorber in 2005, a thermocompensated silicon balance spring and floating lugs in 2006, jumping seconds in 2011 and the absolute clutch of the Maxichrono in 2014 (De Bethune).

The DB28. The DB28 was released in 2010 and won the Aiguille d’Or, the main prize of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, in 2011 (Monochrome Watches). Revolution Watch reports that De Bethune made 65 watches in 2010 and close to 400 a year by 2013 to 2014. The first boutique opened on the Place de Longemalle in Geneva in 2012 (De Bethune).

Ownership changes. Pierre Jacques became chief executive in January 2011, with a two-year break when he ran another brand (Revolution Watch). Wikipedia says Zanetta sold his majority share in 2017. In September 2021 the watch dealer WatchBox took a majority stake (JCK), and in 2023 De Bethune announced a majority investment of its own, in the music-automata maker Reuge (De Bethune). In July 2026 Antoine Pin, formerly chief executive of TAG Heuer, was appointed chief executive, working with Flageollet (Luxury Tribune).

What is De Bethune known for?

De Bethune is known for technical research into the parts that keep time, for blued titanium and other unusual materials, for its floating lugs and spherical moon phase, and for the DB28.

Regulating parts. Much of De Bethune’s work concerns the balance wheel and hairspring, the parts that regulate a mechanical watch. Its patents include a balance wheel and hairspring design (2004) and a thermocompensated silicon balance spring (2006) (De Bethune). Monochrome Watches describes the DB28 with an in-house hairspring and a silicon balance with a platinum ring. Wikipedia says Flageollet also began fundamental research in 2011 into a regulator using a magnetic rotor and a silicon oscillator, called Résonique, which De Bethune’s timeline also lists.

Spherical moon phase. De Bethune shows the moon as a sphere rather than a printed disc; it calls its spherical moon phase display a patented achievement of 2004 (De Bethune), and Monochrome Watches describes the DB28’s version as a 3D moon phase indicator.

Titanium and blueing. De Bethune lists blued titanium among its developments of 2004 (De Bethune), and Monochrome Watches describes the blued titanium elements of the DB28 as the result of an oxidation process.

Floating lugs. The DB28’s patented floating lugs are designed to adapt to the wrist; De Bethune’s timeline dates them to 2006 (De Bethune). If you are unsure how a case will sit, our watch sizing guide explains what to measure.

Movements. De Bethune says all 31 of its calibres are made in its own workshops (De Bethune). Our guide to in-house and outsourced movements explains why that matters to buyers.

Which De Bethune watch collections are there?

De Bethune’s site lists the DB25, DB27, DB28 (with the DB28XP and DB28XS), DB29, DBD, DB Eight, DB Kind of Two, Dream Watch, Maestri’Art and Heritage collections (De Bethune). The collections table on this page gives a line on each. A few points help when you read listings:

• Versions within a family. A family name such as DB28 covers many versions. Ask for the full reference and, where the watch is a unique piece or limited series, its number. De Bethune says it has made 250 unique pieces (De Bethune).
• Sizes vary within a family. The DB28XS has a 38.7 mm case, smaller than other DB28s (De Bethune).
• Calibres change. The company has made 31 calibres in about 23 years (De Bethune), so two watches with the same family name can have different movements. Ask which calibre the watch has.

Who owns De Bethune?

De Bethune is majority owned by WatchBox, a watch dealer founded in 2017, which took a majority stake in 2021 and is now part of The 1916 Company (JCK; Revolution Watch). Before that sale there were 15 shareholders besides Flageollet and Pierre Jacques; WatchBox took over their holdings, and Flageollet and Jacques remained part owners (Revolution Watch). WatchBox co-founder Justin Reis became executive chairman in 2024 (Luxury Tribune). The size of the stake has not been published.

De Bethune describes itself as an independent Swiss manufacture (De Bethune). It is not part of a large watch group, but it does have a majority owner. Sources differ on the earlier ownership: Wikipedia says Zanetta sold his majority share in 2017, while Revolution Watch does not mention a 2017 sale.

Buying a De Bethune watch second-hand in the UK: what to check

Check the reference, calibre and any unique-piece or series number against the papers, ask for the service history and who can service the watch, and run a stolen-watch check.

1. Papers and the full set. Ask for the certificate or warranty card, check that its serial number matches the case, and ask which other items come with the watch. Our guide to what “full set” means explains what each item proves.

2. Warranty. De Bethune does not publish its warranty terms on the pages we checked. A dealer’s own warranty is a promise from the dealer, not from De Bethune. See watch warranties explained.

3. Servicing. De Bethune makes its own movement parts, including balance wheels and silicon balance springs (De Bethune). Ask when the watch was last serviced and by whom, and ask De Bethune or its UK retailer, Bucherer 1888 in London (De Bethune), how a service is arranged. Our guide on how to care for a mechanical watch covers what a service involves.

4. Titanium and finishes. Blued titanium and polished finishes show wear. Ask for clear photographs in daylight and whether the case has been refinished.

5. Authenticity. Buy from a seller who will put authenticity in writing and accept returns, and have the watch checked by a watchmaker you choose. Our guide on how to spot a fake watch covers what a watchmaker looks at.

6. Stolen-watch check. Check the serial number against a stolen-watch register before you pay. Our stolen-watch check guide lists the UK registers.

For the full process from setting a budget to collecting the watch, see the guide to buying a luxury watch.

Frequently asked questions

Who owns De Bethune?

WatchBox, now part of The 1916 Company, has held a majority stake since 2021. Co-founder Denis Flageollet remains a shareholder (Revolution Watch; Luxury Tribune).

Is De Bethune independent?

It is not part of a large watch group, but it has a majority owner, The 1916 Company (Revolution Watch). De Bethune calls itself an independent manufacture because it makes its own movements (De Bethune).

Where are De Bethune watches made?

In L’Auberson, near Sainte-Croix, in the Swiss Jura (De Bethune).

When was De Bethune founded?

On 22 April 2002, by Denis Flageollet and David Zanetta (De Bethune).

Who is Denis Flageollet?

A French-born watchmaker, born in 1962, who co-founded THA with François-Paul Journe in 1989 and De Bethune in 2002 (Wikipedia).

What is the De Bethune DB28?

A De Bethune watch released in 2010, with floating lugs and blued titanium. It won the Aiguille d’Or at the 2011 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (Monochrome Watches).

Why is it called De Bethune?

After the Chevalier de Bethune, an 18th-century French nobleman credited with an escapement (De Bethune).

Does De Bethune make its own movements?

Yes. It says it has made 31 calibres in its own workshops (De Bethune).

This page is general information. Watch60 is independent and has no commercial relationship with De Bethune.

We check the facts on this page against the sources listed, and it is correct to the best of our knowledge as of October 2026. Brands change their warranty, servicing and sales terms, so confirm them with the brand or the seller before you buy.