Chiasso, Switzerland · since 1959

Squale

A sourced guide to Squale: where the dive-watch brand came from, who owns it, what it makes, and the checks that matter when you buy one second-hand in the UK.

By Kay Atkinson, Watch60's watch specialist · 7 min read · Updated October 2026

Squale at a glance

Founded
10 July 1959, when Charles von Büren registered the Squale trademark
Source: Squale
Founder
Charles von Büren, whose Von Büren SA watch factory opened in Neuchâtel in 1950
Source: Squale
Headquarters
Chiasso, canton of Ticino, Switzerland (Squale SA)
Source: Squale
Ownership
The Maggi family, formerly Squale's Italian distributors, who bought the brand in 1982
Source: Squale
Management
Andrea Maggi, who took over from his father
Source: WatchGecko
Speciality
Diving watches only, since 1959
Source: Squale
Name
French for shark; pronounced "skwal"
Source: Wikipedia, Squale Watches
Assembly
By hand, in Squale's workshops in Ticino
Source: Squale
Warranty
Two years; watches made from 2021 must be activated online
Source: Squale
Official website
squale.ch
Source: Squale
Timeline

Squale, year by year.

  1. 1950Charles and Helene von Büren open the Von Büren SA watch factory in Neuchâtel and turn to diving watches. Squale
  2. 1959Von Büren registers the Squale trademark on 10 July, together with Super-Squale, and patents a diving watch case. Squale
  3. 1960Von Büren SA begins making dive-watch cases for other brands, marked with a shark at 6 o'clock or on the case back. Squale
  4. 1962The first watches sold under the Squale name appear, including the prototype of today's SUB-39. Squale
  5. 1967The Master is launched. Squale
  6. 1968The 2002 professional dive watch is launched. Squale
  7. 1970sThe 1521 is introduced; Squale goes on to supply the Italian Navy and the Folgore Parachute Brigade. Squale
  8. 1982Preparing to retire, Charles von Büren sells the brand to the Maggi family. Squale
  9. 2005The Maggi family relaunches Squale and restarts production of its main models. Wikipedia gives 2010. Squale
  10. 2015The Matic is launched. Squale
  11. 2019Squale marks 60 years and launches the SUB-39 collection with a 150-piece limited edition. Squale
  12. 2020The T-183, Squale's first fibreglass and carbon watch, is launched, and the head office moves from Milan to Ticino. Squale
  13. 2026A 2001 model made for the Italian Navy is released to the public for the first time, in 500 numbered pieces. Squale
Collections

The Squale families.

One line on what each family is. Prices and live listings appear here once our dealer partners' stock is connected.

011521Since 1970sNamed after Von Büren's original case reference, with the crown at 4 o'clock, a 120-click bezel and 50 atm water resistance.Source: Squale
02MasterSince 1967One of von Büren's first designs; the Italian Navy version has a helium escape valve and is rated to 1,200 metres.Source: Squale
032002Since 1968Squale's professional dive watch, rated to 1,000 metres, with a helium valve and a push-to-release bezel.Source: Squale
04Super SqualeSince 1960sA light 38 mm skin-diver's watch rated to 200 metres, named after a trademark registered in 1959.Source: Squale
05MaticSince 2015A dive watch rated to 600 metres, with a double-domed sapphire crystal and a lacquered bezel insert.Source: Squale
06SUB-39Since 2019A collection based on a 1962 Squale prototype, launched for the brand's 60th anniversary.Source: Squale
07T-183Since 2020Squale's first watch with a case in fibreglass and carbon.Source: Squale

Who are Squale?

Squale is a Swiss dive-watch brand registered in Neuchâtel in 1959 by Charles von Büren, and owned since 1982 by the Maggi family, its former Italian distributors (Squale). It is now based in Chiasso, in Italian-speaking Ticino, after closing its Milan head office in 2020 (Squale). This page covers its history, collections and ownership, then what to check when buying a second-hand Squale in the UK.

Squale says it has made only diving watches since 1959 (Squale). Before the brand made watches under its own name, von Büren’s factory made dive-watch cases for other Swiss brands (Squale).

The history of Squale

Squale’s history runs from a Neuchâtel case and watch factory in 1950, through the cases it made for other brands and its own dive watches, to the Maggi family’s purchase in 1982 and a relaunch in the 2000s.

Von Büren. Squale says Charles and Helene von Büren opened the Von Büren SA watch factory in Neuchâtel in 1950, and that their interest in diving turned it to underwater watches. Wikipedia gives earlier dates: a company, C. Von Büren SA, in 1946, and watches assembled under von Büren’s name from 1948.

The trademark. On 10 July 1959 von Büren registered the Squale trademark, together with Super-Squale, and Squale says the firm obtained its first patent for diving watch cases that year (Squale).

Cases for other brands. From 1960 Von Büren SA made dive-watch cases for other brands; Squale says they can be recognised by a shark at 6 o’clock on the dial or on the case back (Squale). Wikipedia names Sinn, Blancpain, TAG Heuer and Doxa among them. See our Doxa and Blancpain pages for those brands’ own dive watches.

Squale’s own watches. The first watches sold only as Squale came in 1962, followed by the Master in 1967 and the 2002 in 1968 (Squale). Squale says freedivers Enzo Maiorca and Jacques Mayol set records wearing its watches; its timeline links Maiorca to the Master and Mayol to the 2002, while its 2002 page says both wore early 2002s in the 1970s (Squale). In the 1970s came the 1521, and Squale went on to supply the Italian Navy and the Folgore Parachute Brigade (Squale). Squale says its first Navy contracts, for the COMSUBIN diving unit at La Spezia, date from the 1980s, and that most of those watches were destroyed at the end of their service life (Squale).

The Maggi family. The Maggi family, Squale’s Italian distributors, worked more closely with the von Bürens from 1980, and in 1982, preparing to retire, Charles von Büren sold them the brand (Squale). Squale dates the Rambo, with a built-in compass, to 1984; Wikipedia says 1989 and notes that its own account conflicts with a 1987 film appearance.

Relaunch. Squale says the Maggi family relaunched the brand in 2005; Wikipedia says 2010, with the head office in Milan and watchmaking in Chiasso. The Matic followed in 2015, the SUB-39 collection in 2019, and in 2020 the T-183 and the move of the head office to Ticino (Squale).

What is Squale known for?

Squale is known for professional dive watches, the cases von Büren made for other brands, the 1521’s crown at 4 o’clock, and its work with the Italian Navy.

The 1521 case. Squale says the 1521 takes its name from von Büren’s original case reference and has stayed faithful to it. The crown sits at 4 o’clock to avoid knocks during a dive, and the bezel turns in one direction with 120 clicks (Squale). The 1521 page dates von Büren’s case reference to the 1960s, while Squale’s timeline introduces the 1521 model in the 1970s.

Deep ratings. Squale sorts its range by water resistance, from 200 to 1,200 metres (Squale). The 2002 is rated to 1,000 metres, and Squale says it was the first professional dive watch with a “push to release” bezel, which turns only after being pressed (Squale).

The Italian Navy. Squale renewed its Navy partnership around 40 years after the first contracts, starting with a Master rated to 1,200 metres and tested by Drass Galeazzi. Later editions included a titanium watch for COMSUBIN divers and a 2001 model, released to the public in 2026 in 500 numbered pieces (Squale).

Movements. Squale uses Swiss supplier movements; WatchGecko says the 1521 range uses the Sellita SW 200-1 in an “Elaboré” grade. Squale says each movement is tested in four positions before assembly, and every finished watch is water-tested (Squale).

Which Squale collections are there?

Squale’s current range is listed as 1521, Master, Matic, Matic S, 2001, 2002, SUB-39, SUB-37, Super Squale, 1545 and T-183, with limited editions (Squale).

The collections table on this page gives a line on the main families. A few points help when you read listings:

  • Model numbers. Squale names many collections by number, so “1521” or “2002” is the model, not a year. Read the full reference.
  • Rating. Ratings vary from 200 metres on the Super Squale to 1,200 metres on the Navy Master (Squale). Our water resistance guide explains what a rating means on a second-hand watch.
  • Navy editions. Squale says each Italian Navy edition’s combination of case, colours and dimensions is not repeated in later commercial models (Squale). Match the numbered case back to the papers.

Who owns Squale?

Squale is owned by the Maggi family, who bought it from Charles von Büren in 1982 (Squale). Wikipedia lists Andrea Maggi as a key person, and WatchGecko says he took over from his father. Squale is not part of a larger watch group.

The company trades as Squale SA, with its address at Corso San Gottardo 54/A, Chiasso, and Swiss business number CHE-100829625 (Squale).

Buying a Squale watch second-hand in the UK: what to check

Check whether the warranty was activated, when the water resistance was last tested, the service history, and the papers; then run a stolen-watch check.

1. Warranty activation. Squale gives a two-year international warranty from purchase, with the date and the retailer’s stamp or signature. For watches made from 2021 onwards, the warranty is not valid until it is registered online with the serial number on the case back; earlier watches have no case-back serial and need no activation (Squale). Ask the seller for the warranty slip and whether it was activated. See watch warranties explained.

2. Water resistance. Squale recommends a water-resistance test every year (Squale). Ask when the watch was last tested, especially if you plan to dive with it.

3. Servicing. Squale recommends servicing most of its watches every two years (Squale). Ask when the watch was last serviced and by whom. Our guide on how to care for a mechanical watch covers what a service involves.

4. Papers. Ask which items come with the watch and whether they are originals. Our guide to what “full set” means explains what each item proves.

5. Buying from abroad. Squale’s own online shop ships from Chiasso with VAT and customs included for UK orders (Squale). A second-hand watch bought from a seller in Switzerland or the EU may not include them; read our guide to import duty and VAT.

6. Authenticity and theft. Buy from a seller who will put authenticity in writing and accept returns. Our guide on how to spot a fake watch covers what a watchmaker looks at, and our stolen-watch check guide lists the UK registers to search before you pay.

For the full process from setting a budget to collecting the watch, see the guide to buying a luxury watch.

Frequently asked questions

Who owns Squale?

The Maggi family, Squale’s former Italian distributors, who bought the brand in 1982 (Squale).

Is Squale Swiss or Italian?

Squale SA is a Swiss company based in Chiasso, Ticino, owned by an Italian family. Its head office was in Milan until 2020 (Squale; Wikipedia).

When was Squale founded?

Charles von Büren registered the Squale trademark in Neuchâtel on 10 July 1959; his watch factory dates from 1950 (Squale).

What does Squale mean?

It is French for shark, pronounced “skwal” (Wikipedia).

Did Squale make cases for other brands?

Yes. From 1960 Von Büren SA made dive-watch cases for other brands, marked with a shark (Squale); Wikipedia names Sinn, Blancpain, TAG Heuer and Doxa.

Why is the crown at 4 o’clock on a Squale 1521?

To protect it from knocks during a dive that could unscrew it (Squale).

How long is the Squale warranty?

Two years from purchase. Watches made from 2021 must be registered online for the warranty to be valid (Squale).

How often should a Squale be serviced?

Squale recommends a service every two years for most models and a water-resistance test every year (Squale).

This page is general information. Watch60 is independent and has no commercial relationship with Squale.

Sources (checked 29 October 2026)

  1. Squale, history, philosophy, Swiss made, Italian Navy collaboration, collections (1521, 2002, Matic, Super Squale), warranty and FAQ
  2. Wikipedia, Squale Watches
  3. WatchGecko, Everything you need to know about Squale (16 July 2024)

We check the facts on this page against the sources listed, and it is correct to the best of our knowledge as of October 2026. Brands change their warranty, servicing and sales terms, so confirm them with the brand or the seller before you buy.

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