Zodiac

Who are Zodiac?

Zodiac is a Swiss watch brand that began as a workshop founded by Ariste Calame in Le Locle in 1882 (Coronet; Wikipedia). It is known above all for the Sea Wolf dive watch and has been owned by the American Fossil Group since 2001 (JCK; Fossil Group). This page covers its history, collections and ownership, then what to check when buying a second-hand Zodiac in the UK.

Fossil Group describes Zodiac as having “a rich legacy dating back to 1882” and lists it with Fossil, Skagen, Michele and Relic as one of its owned brands (Fossil Group Form 10-K). Zodiac’s watches are made in Switzerland with movements from STP, a Fossil-owned movement maker in Ticino (Wikipedia; WatchTime).

The history of Zodiac

Zodiac’s history runs from a Le Locle workshop in 1882, through the Sea Wolf and a run of sports watches in the 1950s and 1960s, to bankruptcy in 1997 and ownership by Fossil from 2001.

The founding. Ariste Calame founded a workshop for making watches in Le Locle in 1882, trading under his own name (Coronet; Wikipedia). Wikipedia says his son, Louis Ariste Calame, took over in 1895, and that the Zodiac name was registered in 1908, though it had been used earlier. Sources differ on the date of Zodiac’s flat pocket-watch movement, Calibre 1617: Coronet gives 1924, Wikipedia 1928. Wikipedia credits Zodiac with the Autographic of 1930, a self-winding watch with a power-reserve indicator.

The Sea Wolf and its date. Zodiac’s website dates the Sea Wolf dive watch to 1953 (quoted by Perezcope), and Wikipedia and Coronet repeat that date. A 2024 study of period sources by the researcher who writes as Perezcope found no mention of the Sea Wolf between 1953 and 1956; the earliest it found was an August 1957 US newspaper mention, followed by a presentation at the Basel watch fair in 1958. It notes that the Sea Wolf trademark was registered in Switzerland on 12 September 1955, and that a second generation rated to 200 metres was advertised in 1959. We have not found a period source that confirms 1953.

Sports watches. The Aerospace GMT followed in 1960, with a red GMT hand and a two-colour 24-hour bezel (Wikipedia), and the Olympos, with its manta-ray-shaped case, in 1961 (Gear Patrol). In 1969 Zodiac introduced the Astrographic, whose hands are printed on three transparent discs over the dial; the original used the high-beat Zodiac calibre 88D, running at 36,000 beats an hour, which the SST signature on the dial refers to (Fratello). The Super Sea Wolf, rated to 750 metres, arrived in the early 1970s; Wikipedia, citing Hodinkee, says it was used by US Navy SEALs.

Bankruptcy. Wikipedia says Willy Gad Monnier, formerly of TAG Heuer, bought the brand in 1990; Montres Zodiac SA went bankrupt in November 1997, and in September 1998 Genender International bought its inventory, trademarks and assets.

Fossil. Fossil acquired the Zodiac brand in 2001. Wikipedia dates the purchase of the worldwide rights to 1 October 2001; JCK reported that Fossil completed the purchase of three Biel/Bienne companies, Montres Antima, Meliga Habillement Horloger and Synergies Horlogères, together with the Zodiac brand, on 12 November 2001. Manufacturing stayed in Biel/Bienne (Wikipedia). Fossil launched a ZMX (Zodiac Mission Extreme) line in 2010 (Wikipedia), and in 2012 it took over PWP, a movement maker in Manno, near Lugano, which became STP (WatchTime). The Sea Wolf returned in 2015 with the STP1-11 movement (Wikipedia), and Time+Tide says Fossil also revived the Aerospace GMT and Astrographic with STP movements.

What is Zodiac known for?

Zodiac is known for the Sea Wolf, one of the early dive watches sold to the general public, for the Super Sea Wolf and Aerospace GMT, and for the floating-hand Astrographic.

The Sea Wolf. Wikipedia calls the Sea Wolf “the first purpose-built ‘dive watch’ manufactured and marketed to the masses”. That description depends on the 1953 date, which is disputed (see the history above). A March 1958 trade description cited by Perezcope says the Sea Wolf was developed with the laboratory of Commander Cousteau and rated to 100 metres. It arrived in the same post-war wave of Swiss dive watches as Doxa and Squale, both of which also still sell dive watches today.

On screen. A Sea Wolf is worn by the suspect Arthur Leigh Allen in the 2007 film Zodiac (Wikipedia; Coronet).

Movements. Modern Zodiacs use STP movements. WatchTime says the STP1-11 matches ETA’s 2824 calibre in size and display layout, but has a 44-hour power reserve against the ETA’s 38, and that its maker says it is not a clone: its barrel and escapement differ, and parts do not interchange with ETA’s. Our guide to in-house and outsourced movements explains what a group-owned movement maker means for a brand.

Which Zodiac collections are there?

Zodiac’s range centres on the Super Sea Wolf dive watches, including GMT and Pro-Diver models, alongside the Olympos and occasional reissues such as the Astrographic (Time+Tide; Gear Patrol).

The collections table on this page gives a line on each family. A few points help when you read listings:

• Sea Wolf and Super Sea Wolf. The original Sea Wolf was rated to 200 metres by its second generation; the Super Sea Wolf of the early 1970s was rated to 750 metres (Perezcope; Wikipedia). Modern models use both names, so check the reference.
• Limited editions. Some modern Zodiacs have been made as limited editions. Match the edition number to the papers.
• Chronometer and ISO models. Time+Tide says the Pro-Diver models are ISO 6425 and chronometer certified. Our guide to COSC certification explains what a chronometer certificate means.
• Vintage or modern. Vintage Zodiacs from the 1950s to the 1970s use the brand’s own or modified period movements (Coronet; Fratello), which need a watchmaker with vintage parts; modern ones use STP movements.

Who owns Zodiac?

Zodiac is owned by Fossil Group, Inc., the US watch and accessories company headquartered in Richardson, Texas. Fossil’s annual report lists Zodiac among its owned brands with Fossil, Skagen, Michele and Relic (Fossil Group Form 10-K). Fossil acquired Zodiac in 2001 (JCK; Wikipedia).

In November 2025 the High Court in London sanctioned a restructuring plan for Fossil Group’s unsecured notes, recognised two days later by a US bankruptcy court under Chapter 15. Weil, Fossil’s lawyers, describe it as dealing with part of the company’s debt; it did not report changes to the brands (Weil).

Buying a Zodiac watch second-hand in the UK: what to check

Check whether the watch is vintage or modern, which movement it has, the papers and any limited-edition number, the warranty and when the water resistance was last tested; then run a stolen-watch check.

1. Papers and the full set. Ask for the warranty card, box and, on a limited edition, the numbered certificate, and check the serial and edition numbers against the case back. Our guide to what “full set” means explains what each item proves.

2. Warranty. Zodiac’s own website refused automated access, so we have not confirmed its warranty terms. Ask the seller whether any warranty remains and how it would be claimed. See watch warranties explained.

3. Vintage Zodiacs. For a 1950s to 1970s Sea Wolf, Super Sea Wolf, Aerospace or Astrographic, check that the dial, bezel insert and hands are original, because parts may have been replaced over the years, and ask a watchmaker who knows the calibre to inspect it.

4. Dive watches. If you plan to swim with a Super Sea Wolf, ask when the water resistance was last tested. Our water resistance guide explains why the dial rating is not enough on a second-hand watch.

5. Authenticity and theft. Buy from a seller who will put authenticity in writing and accept returns. Our guide on how to spot a fake watch covers what a watchmaker looks at, and our stolen-watch check guide lists the UK registers to search before you pay.

For the full process from setting a budget to collecting the watch, see the guide to buying a luxury watch.

Frequently asked questions

Who owns Zodiac watches?

Fossil Group, Inc., which lists Zodiac among its owned brands (Fossil Group Form 10-K). Fossil has owned it since 2001 (JCK).

Are Zodiac watches Swiss made?

Zodiac is a Swiss brand, and its manufacturing stayed in Biel/Bienne after Fossil bought it (Wikipedia). Its modern movements come from STP in Ticino (WatchTime).

When was Zodiac founded?

In 1882, by Ariste Calame in Le Locle (Coronet; Wikipedia).

When was the Zodiac Sea Wolf launched?

Zodiac says 1953. Period sources found by the researcher Perezcope point to a soft launch in 1957 and a presentation at the 1958 Basel fair.

What movement do Zodiac watches use?

Modern Zodiacs use movements from STP, Fossil’s Swiss movement maker; the STP1-11 automatic is used in models such as the Olympos (Gear Patrol; WatchTime).

What is the Zodiac Astrographic?

A watch first made in 1969 whose hands are printed on stacked transparent discs, so they appear to float over the dial (Fratello).

What is the Zodiac Olympos?

A watch with a manta-ray-shaped case, first launched in 1961 and reissued in 2022 (Gear Patrol).

What is the Super Sea Wolf?

A dive watch rated to 750 metres, introduced in the early 1970s as a deeper-rated follow-up to the original Sea Wolf; Wikipedia, citing Hodinkee, says it was used by US Navy SEALs.

Is Zodiac owned by the same company as Fossil?

Yes. Zodiac is one of the brands owned by Fossil Group, Inc., alongside Fossil, Skagen, Michele and Relic (Fossil Group Form 10-K).

This page is general information. Watch60 is independent and has no commercial relationship with Zodiac or Fossil Group.

We check the facts on this page against the sources listed, and it is correct to the best of our knowledge as of October 2026. Brands change their warranty, servicing and sales terms, so confirm them with the brand or the seller before you buy.